Dining is one of Puerto de la Cruz’ specialities; almost 300 restaurants are scattered in and around the town providing some of the best cuisine to be found on Tenerife. Menus range from traditional Canarian, through Italian, Spanish, Austrian, Chinese and Indian to Mexican and Peruvian and from burgers to haute cuisine. And nowhere is that variety and high standard of choice more evident than in La Ranilla.
Candles dance alongside artfully simple table decorations on outdoor tables and chairs lining the cobbled streets of the old fishing district as we thread our way through them to arrive at Mil Sabores.
I’ve booked a table on the upper floor because it’s my favourite part of the old house but as we climb the stairs in the heat of the September night, I’m beginning to wonder if I should have gone for one outside instead.
Aubergine and lime green is the sort of colour scheme that only the colour blind would choose, but here, amidst the rich mahogany beams and beneath the Mudejar ceiling, it works beautifully. Yellow-green fine gauze curtains gently drape against beams and quirky food themed pictures and colourful murals adorn the walls.
The menu
“¦ throws all four of us into turmoil. Seven choices of soup alone, sumptuous starters and saliva inducing descriptions of meat, chicken, fish and vegetarian dishes are overwhelming. Between us, there isn’t a single item that we don’t want to order and it takes what feels like an eternity before choices are finally made and conveyed to our smiling waiter.
Small complimentary hors d’oevres of tuna along with a selection of savoury breads act as appetite teasers until the soups arrive.
One of our dining companions considers himself to be something of a fish soup expert having “travelled the world on fish soup” and he happily declares that, after the amazing bouillabaisse he once enjoyed in Marseilles, his fresh seafood soup with saffron is the second best he has ever eaten.
My carrot soup with ginger and orange is the perfect balance of sweet and savoury and the watercress soup with Manchego cheese and Spanish ham is creamy and light.
Dishes
Main courses arrive together and piping hot and our first reaction as every dish is placed before is a collective “wow”. Portions are very generous and beautifully presented on elegant, rectangular plates.
The Tower of Babel ship with its crow’s nest sail is medallions of succulent beef and pork, cooked to perfection and served between crispy, light potato scallops with a hollandaise, herb sauce.
My Ãngel y Diablo consists of a firm, moist chicken breast in a light, honey sauce and a savoury pork fillet in a piquant relish accompanied by crispy potato rösti and fresh broccoli with carrot juliennes and cherry tomatoes.
Dark, rich shoulder of lamb in a garlic and rosemary sauce with olives, green beans and roast potatoes is declared to be “moist, tender and delicious” while everyone agrees that the skewers of duck breast in a light pineapple sauce with fresh vegetables and couscous is possibly the leanest, tastiest and most generously portioned duck ever to appear on a restaurant plate.
Sweets
Appetites sated and thirst quenched by the soft , mellow fruits of a carafe of house red, we all agree that despite loosened belts, there’s a small compartment in the stomach reserved exclusively for chocolate and so desserts of chocolate mousse, tiramisu and profiteroles with almonds are duly ordered.
Each dish consolidates the all round excellence of Mil Sabores’ cuisine but the home made dark, crisp, rich chocolate profiteroles have to rank as the best in our known universe.
If you’ve got a special occasion while you’re on holidays in Tenerife, and even if you haven’t, I recommend at least one visit to Mil Sabores.
Tenerife Magazine’s 5 Star Rating for Mil Sabores:
Décor – 4.5 Stars – An immaculately restored traditional Canarian house dressed in contemporary, extrovert design with lots of elegant and quirky touches to discover.
Menu – 5 Stars – Innovative selection of starters, soups, main and desserts with vegetarian choices. Menu is well set out with Spanish, German and English descriptors beneath one another.
Food – 5 Stars – Generous portions; excellent cuts of meats cooked to retain moisture and flavour; fresh vegetables and deliciously decadent desserts all beautifully presented. Faultless.
Service – 5 Stars – Friendly, efficient and professional without being obtrusive. All dishes arrived together and were cleared promptly and all requests were met quickly and with genuine smiles.
Where, when and how:
Calle Cruz Verde, 5: Puerto de la Cruz; open Mon to Sat 18.30 ““ 23.30; Reservations (+34) 922 36 81 72
Prices:
Our three courses, beer, wine and water came to €109 for four persons.
Starters average €8; soups average €4; main courses average €12.60; sweets average €4.60.
An extensive wine menu starts from around €9
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